2. Nutrition Plan

Controlling Glucose Supply

Beware of Begging

If your diabetic dog is begging for food more than usual, it might be a sign their diabetes isn’t well controlled. Feeding them extra won’t fix the problem — it can actually make things worse by raising their already high blood sugar levels even more. When hunger strikes, talk to your vet about testing to see how well your diabetes management plan is working and what we can do to get them back on track. 

When it comes to feeding a dog with diabetes, it’s easy to feel confused or worried about making the right choices. Nutrition plays a key role in keeping blood sugar stable, but that doesn’t mean mealtimes have to become complicated. With the right plan, you can create a routine that supports your dog’s health while still fitting into everyday life.

Because most diabetic dogs have Type 1 (insulin-dependent) diabetes, their condition can’t be reversed with diet and exercise the way it sometimes can with individuals or animals who are Type 2, non-insulin-dependent diabetics. That doesn’t mean nutrition isn’t important — in fact, it’s one of the most powerful tools for keeping your dog’s diabetes stable. This is because what your dog eats influences how high and for how long their blood sugar rises after meals, which in turn affects how much insulin they need and how well that insulin works to get the blood sugar levels back down to normal again.

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What are Our Goals?

Our three main nutrition priorities with dogs are:

  • Finding a complete, nutritionally balanced diet that they will consistently eat within 10 to 15 minutes of being offered their meal
  • Feeding them the correct amount of food to achieve and/or maintain their weight in the ideal range
  • Limiting the amount of treats or snacks they get between meals to prevent blood sugar spikes

Keeping everything as consistent as possible by feeding your dog the same food at the same time in the same amount every day will make it MUCH easier to manage your dog’s blood glucose levels because they will have a more predictable response to their insulin injections. 

What to Feed

Most diabetic dogs can do okay on any complete, nutritionally balanced commercial diet that fits within your budget. If possible, try to avoid very low-cost or budget pet food brands, as these often vary much more in their ingredient quality and nutritional composition from batch to batch. Consistency is especially important for diabetic dogs to help keep their blood glucose levels stable and predictable after eating.  If you are feeding wet food, avoid ones with gravy because these tend to have a higher carbohydrate content.

The main reason for switching diabetic dogs onto a special diet is if they have other health issues:

For dogs with a known history of pancreatitis or that have high fasting triglyceride (fat) levels in their blood that increases their risk of pancreatitis, it is recommended to feed a highly digestible, low-fat diet where the fat content does not exceed 20 grams of fat per 1000 kcal (approximately 8% fat on a dry matter basis). The best options for these are usually the prescription diets because there aren’t many complete and nutritionally balanced over-the-counter diets with this nutrient profile:

  • Purina EN Low Fat
  • Royal Canin GI Low Fat
  • Hill’s I/D Low Fat

 

The best way to screen for pancreatitis risk is fasting your dog (not giving them food) for 12 hours and then taking a blood sample to measure triglycerides.

Dogs that are significantly overweight or obese (Body Condition Score 8 or 9) may need a prescription weight loss diet that is specifically formulated to make sure they are still getting enough vital nutrients while being in a calorie deficit – yes, these diets are much more expensive but your dog may only need to be on them for a couple months until their body condition is closer to normal

Dogs that are significantly underweight at the time of diagnosis may need a more calorie-dense diet to help them get back to a healthy weight.

If your dog also has liver disease, kidney disease, or food allergies on top of their diabetes, your veterinarian may recommend feeding a prescription diet and/or limited ingredient diet to manage those diseases as a priority. 

If your dog’s diabetes has been difficult to regulate, one of the first things your veterinarian may suggest is a change in diet. Switching to a prescription or specially formulated food can make a big difference because these diets are designed to provide consistent nutrition, help stabilise blood sugar levels, and support healthy weight management. A more predictable diet also reduces day-to-day variation in how your dog’s body responds to insulin, making it easier to fine-tune their treatment plan.

Otherwise, we don’t have as much research on the best diets for diabetic dogs as we do for people and most of the studies in people have focused on Type 2 (non-insulin-dependent) diabetes which is reversible through dietary changes and lifestyle changes unlike the Type 1 (insulin-dependent) diabetes that dogs usually have.

Diabetic Diets

Based on our current knowledge, it appears that the carbohydrate concentration in the diet doesn’t seem to make a huge difference to diabetic control in dogs. However, for some dogs — particularly those who are overweight or whose blood glucose curves show a very large spike in glucose levels shortly after eating — feeding a diet that’s higher in fibre may have some benefits.

There are two different types of fibre that work in different ways to potentially help diabetic dogs:

Insoluble fibre passes through the digestive tract without getting broken down and can make body tissues respond a little more effectively to insulin.  Diets that are high in insoluble fibre are usually bulky with fewer calories per gram of food, which can make dogs in a calorie deficit feel fuller after eating and reduce begging behaviour.  The main downside to feeding diets high in insoluble fibre is that it can speed up the movement of food and waste through the digestive tract which may reduce how effectively some nutrients are absorbed.

Soluble fibre works a little bit differently by dissolving in water to form a gel-like substance that slows the digestion and absorption of many of the foods we eat including carbohydrates. This means that glucose is released into the blood stream more slowly which can help prevent big spikes in blood glucose levels immediately after eating and reduce the amount of insulin your dog needs to bring those under control.

If you’re considering switching to a high-fibre diet, look for one that contains more than 8% fibre on a dry matter basis. This will usually be a mix of both insoluble and soluble fibre although the labels won’t usually tell you the % split. The commercial options for high-fibre diets are:

  • Royal Canin Gastrointestinal High Fibre
  • Hill’s W/D
  • Royal Canin Diabetic Dog
  • Hill’s Gastrointestinal Biome

 

Advanced warning – high fibre diets can significantly increase the volume of stool your dog makes and they may need more frequent walks during the day to prevent accidents in the house.

A lot of owners ask about adding soluble fibre supplements like psyllium to their dog’s regular food instead of switching to a commercial high-fibre diet. Commercial diets are generally considered a better source of fibre because they contain and mix of soluble and insoluble fibre and are specially formulated to ensure pets still receive all their essential nutrients, even when the added fibre might interfere with absorption.

Adding soluble fibre is not essential for controlling Type 1 (insulin-dependent) diabetes but may have a slight effect on reducing the total dose of insulin your dog needs and is unlikely to cause your dog harm if used in moderation. 

The general dose for Psyllium husk powder:

  • Small dogs (<10 kg): ¼ to ½ teaspoon once or twice daily
  • Medium dogs (10–25 kg): ½ to 1 teaspoon once or twice daily
  • Large dogs (>25 kg): 1 to 2 teaspoons once or twice daily

You can use the regular Psyllium husk powder found in the health food section of your grocery store. Do not use soluble fibre supplements that contain flavours or sweeteners as some of these can be toxic to dogs.

Here are some things to consider before adding any fibre supplements:

  • Check with your vet to make sure there are no medical reasons why it shouldn’t be used – for example, psyllium can affect the absorption of certain oral medications and should be given 2 hours before or after.
  • It is not good to give your dog extra fibre if they haveany vomiting, abdominal pain, or suspected intestinal blockages.
  • Consider performing a blood glucose curve after starting supplementation to check if the current dose of insulin is still appropriate. 
  • Make sure your dog always has plenty of water available after eating because psyllium absorbs water in the stomach and can make your dog feel thirstier.

Alternative Diets

Some owners feel uneasy about feeding commercial kibble diets because they’ve heard concerns about processed foods in people, or they worry that ingredients like grains and meat by-products may be unhealthy for dog. It’s true that these ingredients aren’t a big part of a wild dog’s diet — but that doesn’t mean they can’t be safe or nutritious. When properly formulated, commercial diets are carefully balanced to provide all the essential nutrients your dog needs for good health.  It’s more important to focus on the nutritional value of the diet rather than the ingredient list.

If you do want to explore home-prepared maintenance diets, it really needs to be done with caution and under the guidance of a board-certified veterinary nutritionist who holds one of the following recognised qualifications:

  • Diplomate of the European College of Veterinary and Comparative Nutrition (DECVCN)
  • Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Nutrition (DACVN)
  • Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine (Nutrition) (DACVIM (Nutrition))

Studies that have looked at homemade pet food recipes that are available online, have shown that many of these do not meet established nutritional standards. Inadequate levels of essential nutrients — such as calcium, phosphorus, and certain vitamins — are common, which could lead to far more serious health issues for your pet over time than they could potentially get from eating commercial kibble-based diets.

Wilson, S.A., Villaverde, C., Fascetti, A.J. and Larsen, J.A., 2019. Evaluation of the nutritional adequacy of recipes for home-prepared maintenance diets for cats. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, 254(10), pp.1172-1179.

Stockman, Jonathan, et al. “Evaluation of recipes of home-prepared maintenance diets for dogs.” Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association 242.11 (2013): 1500-1505.

Feeding raw meat diets to dogs and cats may sound “natural,” but research shows they come with serious risks. Studies highlight that many raw or meat-only diets are nutritionally unbalanced, lacking essential vitamins, minerals, and fibre needed for long-term health. Deficiencies or excesses can lead to problems with growth, bone strength, immune function, and overall wellbeing.

On top of this, raw commercial pet foods often show poor hygiene quality, with contamination from bacteria like Salmonella and E. coli that can make both pets and people sick. For these reasons, veterinary nutrition experts caution against raw meat diets unless carefully formulated and strictly monitored, as the potential harms outweigh the perceived benefits.

Tazerji, S.S., Elahinia, A., Akhtardanesh, B., Kabir, F., Vazir, B., Duarte, P.M., Haji-pour, P., Rehman, A., Ilyas, M.F., Hassanzadeh, S. and Gharieb, R., 2024. Nutritional risks and consequences of meat-only diets for dogs and cats. Ger. J. Vet. Res, 4(1), pp.62-76.

Vecchiato, C.G., Schwaiger, K., Biagi, G. and Dobenecker, B., 2022. From nutritional adequacy to hygiene quality: a detailed assessment of commercial raw pet-food for dogs and cats. Animals, 12(18), p.2395

How to Switch Diets

If you are switching to a new diet, try to find one with a similar shape or texture to the old diet and transition your dog gradually onto the new diet over a few days by mixing the new and old diets together (unless there is a medical reason why they need to be switched faster). A typical guide is:

  • Day 1–2: 75% old food, 25% new food
  • Day 3–4: 50% old, 50% new
  • Day 5–6: 25% old, 75% new
  • Day 7: 100% new food

This can help prevent them from getting an upset stomach as well as increasing the chances your dog will accept a new food.  Please note that anytime you make significant changes to your dog’s diet, you may need to repeat a blood glucose curve to make sure your current insulin dosing is still effective.

How Much to Feed

Making sure your dog gets the right number of calories each day not only helps with achieving or maintaining a healthy weight but also plays a key role in managing their blood sugar levels. The calculator below can help you estimate how many calories your dog should have each day and how much food that translates into based on the diet you are feeding.

Disclaimer: Every dog is unique so use this as a general guide only and always confirm your feeding plan with your veterinarian to ensure it’s safe and appropriate for your dog’s individual health needs.

Dog Calorie & Feeding Calculator

Step 1 — Calculate daily calories



📖 What is BCS? (WSAVA guide)
1–3 underweight · 4–5 normal · 6–9 overweight

Your dog’s actual energy needs may be as much as 50% higher or lower than the recommended calorie intake, depending on their metabolism, activity level, and any underlying health conditions. This calculation provides a useful starting point, but it’s important to monitor your dog’s weight every 2–4 weeks. If adjustments are needed, calories are usually increased or decreased by 10–20% at a time, then reassessed to see how well the change is working.

Beware of Begging

If your dog is acting really hungry and begging for food, do NOT give them more until we have checked how well their blood glucose is being regulated. Eating more food without having enough insulin to get it into their cells will just make the problem even worse.

When to Feed

Your dog’s meals should be timed for around the same time as when they receive their insulin injections to control the spike in blood glucose levels from them digesting their meal. 

  • For dogs on twice daily insulin injections, this usually means feeding two meals per day with each meal containing about half of what they are supposed to eat for the day.
  • For dogs on once daily insulin injections, this usually means either feeding your dog one meal per day (if they don’t get too hungry between meals and can tolerate eating a large meal at one time) or feeding about two-thirds of your dog’s daily food before the morning insulin injection to confirm your dog is feeling well and eating normally, then offering the remaining one-third of the food 8–10 hours later when the insulin is working at its strongest.

Dogs should ideally not receive any food or treats between their main meals as this can cause significant spikes in blood sugar at times where there may not be enough insulin to bring them under control.

How About Treats?

Ideally, we don’t want diabetic dogs to have any food pass through their lips between main meals because even small snacks can disrupt the careful balance between food, insulin, and blood glucose levels that we’re working hard to achieve. 

  • Snacks can cause unexpected spikes in blood glucose. This makes it harder to keep their diabetes stable and maintain blood glucose levels in appropriate ranges throughout the day.
  • Snacks may reduce their appetite for their main meal. If they get too full during the day, they may not be hungry enough to finish their full meal at night when it’s needed the most to balance their insulin injection.
  • Extra snacks add extra calories. This increases the risk of weight gain and obesity-related health problems as well as making their diabetes harder to manage.

Despite what your dog may tell you, they really can live a happy life without treats! The need to overfeed usually comes from us — whether it’s because we love the tail wags and affection we get when handing over a snack, we want to stop the persistent annoying begging, or we’re trying to ease our own guilt about their health or lifestyle. But in the long run, keeping treats limited helps them stay healthier — and that’s one of the best ways we can show our love. Toys, praise, and pats can also work really well as non-food ways of bonding with our dogs.

If you (or someone in your household) absolutely cannot resist giving them treats, choose safer options that are low in calories, carbohydrates, and fats such as:

  • green beans
  • carrots
  • cucumbers
  • mini rice cakes
  • plain popcorn without butter
  • lean meats like boiled chicken or turkey
  • single ingredient commercial treats

Feed no more than 1 or 2 small pieces total throughout the day.  Also remember that these foods have calories too and need to be accounted for in your dog’s daily food budget, especially if we are working on weight loss. No more than 10% of your dog’s total calorie intake should come from treats.

We absolutely want to avoid foods that are high in fats (cheese, fatty meats, processed meats, fat trimmings, bone marrow, greasy fried foods, avocado, peanut butter, and nuts) because these can trigger pancreatitis and are usually very calorie dense.  Many commercial dog treats contain a lot of added fats, sugars, and fillers so should also be avoided where possible.

What About Water?

Your dog should have access to unlimited fresh, clean water at all times. Healthy dogs typically drink around 50–60 ml of water per kg of body weight per day, depending on their diet, the weather, and how active they are. Diabetic dogs usually drink a little more than this, especially if their blood glucose levels aren’t well controlled.

What to do with Picky Eaters?

It can be really frustrating when you put down your dog’s food dish and they just turn up their nose at it! The first step in troubleshooting picky eating is to make sure there aren’t any other underlying health issues making it difficult or painful for your dog to eat. Problems such as dental disease, pancreatitis, or any medical conditions that cause pain or nausea can all affect their appetite.  Your vet can screen for these by doing a thorough physical exam and some basic bloodwork to check how everything inside is functioning. 

Dogs that don’t feel like eating first thing in the morning, but are keen for their evening meal, may be experiencing acid reflux (reflux oesophagitis) overnight. In these cases, your vet might suggest a short trial of medication such as omeprazole (to reduce stomach acid) or metoclopramide (to help food move through the stomach) given at bedtime for about a week, to see if it improves your dog’s appetite.

If your vet is concerned about a possible ongoing digestive issue such as low-grade pancreatitis, they may recommend a course of metronidazole (an antibiotic that can help with gut inflammation) along with cobalamin (vitamin B12) injections to support digestion.

It’s also important to keep an eye out for sudden changes. If your dog normally eats well but suddenly refuses food, contact your vet promptly. In some cases, this can be an early warning sign of a more serious condition such as diabetic ketoacidosis (DKA).

If your dog is otherwise healthy, the most common reasons for picky eating are:

  • Too many treats or table scraps during the day – if your dog fills up on snacks or learns that refusing their main meal leads to higher value treats later on, they may hold out and choose not to eat.

Keep a food diary for a few days logging everything your dog eats including meals, treats, bones, and table scraps.  If these make up more than 10% of the total food or calories your dog gets in a day, you are most likely overfeeding treats.

  • Not knowing what’s a normal amount – small breed dogs in particular can meet their daily calorie needs with very small amounts of food, but owners often expect them to eat much larger portions than they actually require. When they don’t finish, it can seem like they’re being picky — but often, they’re just full!

Calculate the number of calories your dog needs every day and either weigh or measure the exact amount of food they should be getting with each meal.

  • Not liking the taste or texture of their food – some dogs simply prefer warm food, soft food, or certain protein types. 

If you are switching to a new diet, try to find one with a similar shape or texture to the old diet and transition your dog gradually onto the new diet over a few days by mixing the new and old diets together (unless there is a medical reason why they need to be switched faster). A typical guide is:

  • Day 1–2: 75% old food, 25% new food
  • Day 3–4: 50% old, 50% new
  • Day 5–6: 25% old, 75% new
  • Day 7: 100% new food

This can help prevent them from getting an upset stomach as well as increasing the chances your dog will accept a new food.  If your dog absolutely refuses to eat a new diet, it may be better to stick with the old one — consistent eating is usually more important for managing diabetes than switching foods.

  • Irregular meal routines or inconsistent food options – some dogs need time and routine to feel secure about eating, If their schedule has been disrupted, or if you’ve recently switched foods (for example, to accommodate their diabetes), they may be slower to accept meals.

Stick to feeding your diabetic dog at regular times every day (which is important for the blood sugar management anyway) and keep the diet as consistent as possible.

  • Stress, boredom, or changes at home – disruptions in the home environment, such as new pets, visitors, moving house, or changes in daily routines, can reduce appetite. Sensitive or anxious dogs are especially prone to skipping meals during stressful times.

Keep mealtimes calm and predictable, feed in a quiet space away from other pets, and stick to a consistent daily schedule. For more ideas, check out our resources on creating a home environment that supports your dog’s sense of security and reduces stress.

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